|
Best climbing nuts vs hexes reddit My opinions about a cam is that they are quicker to place, have much more room for a poorly judged crack width ("pretty sure its the blue hex, fuck, nope, lets try the purple, fuck that's way too big, maybe if i spin the blue one in this direction, shit my arm is tired, damn legs are shaking . I love my torque nuts, but in the end it's best if you're familiar with as many types of gear as possible, so collect a variety (Including hexes which many people won't/don't know how to Consider getting some second hand wires and maybe even (gasp!) hexes before getting cams. DMM Peenut Best for All-Around Small Nuts. Once I started climbing on gear routes that physically challenged my climbing ability the rapid placement of a cam became welcome[1]. You'll find in the UK, most climbers skip the cams for their first rack and will opt for hexes instead as they are cheaper and work very similarly to nuts. $65. Jan 8, 2024 · In the late 1980s into the 1990s in UK climbing, there was a decisive move away from a mix of individually racked hexes of all sizes & medium nuts on cord towards using only larger hexes, plus nuts on wire (with quickdraws) due to ease of use. Once placed you can set them fairly hard. Also hexes work much better when you are Scottish winter climbing. Nov 23, 2016 · Hey Matt, if you are going up the learning curve in trad climbing, I highly recommend you buying hexes. $170. Also, I love dmm alloy offsets and I think they're the best single piece of gear out there but they're not a replacement for regular nuts. Aug 8, 2022 · A typical set of nuts, also called wires or chocks, consists of 10 to 12 pieces that start small—less than . I find the hexes and offsets tend to have the strongest placements and get placed more often but I definely still use the nuts a lot. com Nuts=Stoppers Have a full set. The Rockcentrics do come in more sizes, but mostly on the smaller end of the scale. When I started trad climbing, I couldn't afford the cams, so I led exclusively on nuts, hexes, and tricams for probably 40 of my first 50 pitches on gear. Posted by u/deadphish1 - 9 votes and 35 comments They are pretty decent, but in my opinion not the best hex. if the rock type is suited to offsets have a set of theirs also. Don't let DMM's marketing fool you though that those four sizes replace six sizes of conventional hexes. Usually one or two hits and it rattles loose. 5 cam or over then it would be a financial decision for me. I see a lot of climbers on Reddit suggesting just carrying offsets "because they work in all the same placements". Sep 16, 2011 · In reply to derms: Seems a bit of an "apple versus Pears" type question. . I set my Rockcentric hexes as hard as I can and they have never rattled loose during a climb. These are “standard” sizes to look for when first building your rack. Good places to stand and place and fiddle with a hex are good places to break an ankle. $80. In the sizes that nuts are available on wire, then I think nuts are better, but if the question were hexes versus cams, when getting to say a 2. Still love the hexes for clanking up the old-school 5. Cams are certainly easier, quicker and more confidence inducing but well placed passive pro is bomber. Double up 2-7. Black Feb 20, 2021 · In short, cams will go most places hexes will go (more quickly and easily), but hexes won't go a lot of places cams will. Hexes are lighter, cheaper, and scare the bears away. I also instruct my second how to easily remove them. They do also work in irregular/chossy/slimy cracks. 25” wide—and go up to about 1. American climber here who’s beginner rack started with BD nuts. They probably work best in smooth cracks. 77. The back story to this post is that a friend argues that a hex could be places where a cam could. I can confirm that they’re inferior to most other nuts. Also have a few micros of offsets & stopper/rock/nuts. 75. 6. I will be picking up one to fill the gap between by DMM's and sets of nuts. (Nuts are the foundation on which UK trad climbing is built). Just use the sideways long end of the nut tool and smack the hex as hard as you can from the wire or sling side like your hitting something with a hammer. Oct 31, 2024 · Best Overall Climbing Nut. if you can place a hex = elephant bomb proof! but the weight, take only what you expect to place size 3 & 6 if you have a full set of nuts. Black Diamond Hexcentrics are ok. Anyone who says that stoppers are all the same, have never climbed pitches that have finicky gear and aren’t protectable without good nut placements. For unknown long climbs . Certainly a good deal better than Black Diamond Hexcentrics, and far, far better than Metolius Ultralight Curved hexes. I've recently started trad climbing as well and am using DMM nut set 3 (includes a set of nuts, offsets and hexes). Maybe. See full list on rei. And #4 purple Torque Nut is a little smaller than the #9 purple Rockcentrics. 3” for wedgeshaped nuts and 3. Same thing when I did own the Torque Nuts before I sold them in favor of the Rockcentrics. You can hammer them into icy cracks. CAMP USA Pro Nut. Use the side of the nut tool and smack the hex as hard as you can the opposite way it went in. 73. Nuts and hexes all have a curved side, this is for camming them in, a fall will cam them in harder. For everyday cragging, you won't miss them. ETA: If you do get hexes, get the WC rockcentrics or DMM torque nuts. Metolius Ultralight Curve Nut. Comparing sizes #1 green, #2 green, #3 gold Torque Nuts are almost the same size in all setting positions within one or two mm as the #5 green, #6 red, #7 gold Rockcentrics. I don't believe it. Hexes clean as quickly as a nut that you need a nut tool to get out, often times quicker. I think they’re just what we buy here and then don’t think about it. Obviously this resulted in carrying more equipment so was heartily encouraged by gear manufacturers. 5” for six-sided hexes. zdbggf zynx aqmsvs xrlri pnoq jyht vhdic ugbdfbdy teybvm lhyuk |
|